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RL 28 Question time begins
Just bought an RL28 and need some info 1. how far from the goose neck is the boom vang cleat? 2.how much drag is created when the OB is left down in the well whilst sailing? 3. Is there anyone who still sells the original fittings for RL's? 4. Where or how can I obtain a pattern for rudder daggers? 5. How can I obtain a sail number if one is not present on the boat or equipment?
Robert27-Jan-2004    Edit    Delete 
Engine drag and vangs
I have recently put the engine back in the well of INMA, an RL24. While the RL28 is larger etc. I believe my observations on INMA's handling with the engine up and down are relevant.

When sailing last Friday in 20 knots of wind (the official speed at Falkner Beacon, no guesses), we calibrated the log using a GPS (so the hull speeds are accurate).

INMA was able to sail close hauled at 5-5.5 knots with the engine up in cruising trim.

We were reaching and running at )7knots most of the day under main and jib having a ball figuring out just what INMA could do and how to keep doing it.

While reaching and running, accasionally the outboard was kicked up by a wave in the well and dropped down acting like a water brake. INMA immediately became tender, fell off the plane and was sluggish to control. The engine did not drop completely down, the water flow kept the engine at about half tilt. Once we figures out what was happening, I soon got use to pulling the outboard up as soon as INMA went tender, the crew did not even notice my actions as I re set the outboard and rested my knee on the cowling to stop it happening again.

Our problem was caused by me leaving the well open (a bombay door is a winter project) and will be fixed soon. As for the effect of the engine drag, INMA definitely handles a lot better with the engine up.

I suspect the RL28 would be more forgiving than the lighter RL24 but the tilting of the engine and reduced drag is something I would plan for my to do list if I had an RL28.

As for vangs on lightly rigged boats like RLs, beware of making a powerful vang on an RL, the boom thrust loads can break the mast when running. Avoid using a powerful vang and do most of the sail trim with the mainsheet. The flexible rig seems to work best with less vang on INMA.

Greg

Greg28-Jan-2004    Edit    Delete 
O/B dropping
We too have the occasional surge of ocean rear It's head through our O/B Well, though our 8hp Suzuki has a sprung loaded lever which must be held down to relase and lower the leg. Does your O/B differ from this practical design ?. As for bombay doors to close the well, I would be interested to discuss and view any designs you have as this would improve speed and handling while surfing in waves dramatically. Darren.
Darren30-Jan-2004    Edit    Delete 
RL28 rudder and motor tilting
I have added a drawing of the rudder to the drawings section but will replace it with a clearer image in a day or so.

An RL28's speed will drop noticably when the motor is lowered so always tilt it, even if it can't be fully tilted out of the water. But don't leave it patly tilted if stored at a marina because the anode is then out of the water. Best option is to add another anode to the fin at the bottom where is remains submerged.

Someone had a hinge system that lifted the motor forward as well as up so it tilted fully. I would love to get a drawing or photo of that hinge if anyone has one.

Keith Merkley29-Jan-2004    Edit    Delete 
Hinge for tilting the outboard
Keith I have one on my Boat.

I recently mailed the older iron hinge plate to a RL28 owner in the eastern states. That should be available to make a accurate drawing of. Email me to discuss

Brendan30-Jan-2004    Edit    Delete 

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