RL24, RL28, and RL34 Trailable Yachts
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Shroud placements
Hello everyone. I bought my boat (an RL24 American Made Swing Keel)several years ago, she's been sitting in my yard for at least five years now. I didn't give her a name before we set sail for the fist time. In retrospect this may have been my demise. On our first outing the rudder broke off, the keel whinch jammed, and of course the outboard didn't work. Within two weeks the port side shroud pulled through the decking and the mast broke off. The reason I am telling all of you this is so I may ask you for some information. I don't know if the previous owner changed the rigging positions (shrouds)or if they are the original. What is the exact position for the inside and outside shrouds (inches or milli's from mast?). I think this guy put night lights in the position for the shrouds. Did the original RL 24 have the outside shroud u bolt face opposite from the inside. Also I need to make\buy a rudder from scratch. I know a glass man, what dimensions should I give. The Tips and mods section doesn't really give length and width dimensions. Sorry for the long read but getting hopeless and found this site.
John Hayes14-Sep-2007    Edit    Delete 
Re: Shroud placements

I reckon you got off easy with your first sail in your RL 24, as on my first trip, I failed to pin the rudder on (no pin) and when I was passing the crowded sailing club under power the rudder floated off at the first turn and I hit the breakwater doing about three knots. I was really embarrassed and the boat was then always referred to as ‘the Titanic’. I bought her as an old run down Mark 1 which had been home assembled from a kit and everything had been either fitted upside down or was on the wrong way round!

Your rig set up does not appear to be as original and your shroud U bolts quite clearly, have not been fitted properly! Both the lowers and the main shrouds are usually fitted to the one shroud U Bolt. I use a very high rig tension without lowers now and I had to fit what we call a doubling plate to spread the load within the hull structure at the gunnels inside the cabin. My doubling plates are about 8” x 3” x 3/8” thick (if I remember rightly) and are made from aluminium. U bolts with two shrouds on them, if fitted properly, do not pull through the hull!

You must check the condition of the keel lifting wire where it is attached to the keel as your boat has been laid up for an extended period and there could be corrosion in the wire or the fittings. The keel might even be semi seized or be tight on the fulcrum pin so I would try easing the nuts back a bit to see if it takes any load off the winch. Always use the heaviest flexible type galvanised wire the winch can take and do not use stainless wire as it fatigues quickly when being wound round the winch drum. As a exracer I fitted in the past an old main sheet block system to pull up my swing keel quickly from the cockpit.

With regard to your rudder, have a look at the photographs on this web site as we all use the vertical laminar flow drop board now which is fitted into an aluminium frame. You can make the frame with tiller from square section aluminium by bolting it and without any welding.

I will measure my boat and give you the dimensions you are requesting later on today and if you want I will photograph my rudder for you!

Alastair Russell16-Sep-2007    Edit    Delete 

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