RL24, RL28, and RL34 Trailable Yachts
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1983 RL24 'Skiff Rig' Mast and Sail Setting Sheet
North Sails (Australia) Pty. Ltd.

12 Polo Avenue, Mona Vale 2103
P.O. Box 511, Mona Vale 2103
Phone: 997 5966


Mast Section GP 7 ---- 82.5 mm. dia. ---- (3 1/4) tapered. .

All measurements from base of mast allowing for mast step


Step --------- One off -------- 0"

Goose neck track ------ RM 103 LR------- 1' 3 1/2" to 2' 1"

Spin. Pole position -------- Personal preference ----- 3' 2"

Spreader base ---------- RM 477 ---------- 10' 3"

Spreader arms ---------- FG 872C -------- 10' 3"

Hounds/jib halyard sheave ----- FG 225 -------- 19' 2 1/2"

Spinnaker halyard ------- RM 305 -------- 20' 6"

Halyard lock --------- RF 182 -------- 6' 6" approx.

Mast length ------- (see rules 8.3 m from cabin top)--- 272

Boom ------- 4" Aluminium down pipe light gauge ---- 8'11"

Boom ------- Car travel for loose footed sail---- 8' to 8' 9


Step mast with forestay and side stays (no sails).
Level hull to design sailing lines then drop a string line from mast head to deck.
Set rake up to have 6" between the aft edge of the mast and the string line at deck level.


Spreaders are to be fixed (no movement) in line with the side stays as set up above in the"Rake". Do not force the stays out of line with the spreaders as this will happen automatically as the mast bends.


Set the jib up so that the shirt sits just off the deck/coach-house. Extend an imaginary line from 2/3rds the way up the jib luff (approx. 12' up from tack) down through the centre hole of the clew board to the deck where you scribe an arc from the outside edge of the coach-house in to the centre line of the cabin. Bolt the jib track down over this sheeting line. The track should extend from the cabin edge for sheeting when reaching to within 10" of the cabin centre for light air on a wind sheeting. You then use the clew board holes for fine sheeting adjustments up and down.



The mainsail is loose footed and fully battened on a flexy mast which combine to make a very versatile sail. The battens should be tied in with enough tension to remove wrinkles whilst sailing, keeping in mind that the sail will wrinkle more as wind pressure increases.

In light airs ( 0 - 8 knots)

The mainsail should look very full for power (not flat as some people believe). Ease the loose foot in, so the mainsail skirt sits about 9" off the, centre of the boom. Ease the boom vang right off (no tension) and pull the traveller 18" to windward from the centre line. Then ease the mainsheet and thus boom into the centre line. There should be no luff tension on the main, even to the point that cosmetic wrinkles develop up the luff so that the drive moves aft in the sail. In these, conditions the mast will stand straight and the sail will look about the same depth all over with maximum drive at about 45% aft.

In moderate airs ( 8 - 15 knots)

You set the mainsail up to be powerful keeping in mind the boat should be sailed flat, yet with enough tension on bluff, foot, battens and mainsheet to remove wrinkles. .At this stage, the traveller ranges from the centre line to 6" to windward with firm sheet tension.

In fresh winds ( 15 knots and above)

You start to depower the rig so the boat sails as flat as possible. Crew weight should be as far to windward as possible. The aim is to bend the mast through luff, main sheet, batten and vang tension to depower the rig. Pull the foot-tension out very tight so the sail sets flat off the boom. The traveller should be eased to leeward before the mainsheet to depower. Only throw the mainsheet in very fresh winds to prevent stalling and knock downs. In these conditions, the boom vang must be very tight so when the sheet tension is eased the mast does not straighten up causing the sail to power up.


The jib is a small high ratio sail designed to keep a clear slot behind the powerful mainsail. Being so short on the foot, the sheeting angle both in and outboard and fore and aft is very critical to wind conditions.

In light airs

The jib should be sheeted 10" from the centre line and down the leech (high up the clew board) on a sheeting line of 75% up the bluff so that the sheet can be eased about 1"on a wind to induce twist in the leech without the leech falling off and loosing power.In light air the ideal sail is a powerful cut 3 oz N.Y.T. Use very little to no luff tension so the luff is on the point of scalloping between hanks. If rig tension is adjustable it should be very loose to induce forestay sag and thus headsail power.

In moderate to fresh condition

Change to the 5 oz. N.Y.T. regular jib. Just enough luff tension should be used to remove wrinkles from wind pressure - so alter luff tension to suit wind strength. The sheeting should be more outboard 12" to 14" to prevent mainsail backwinding. More sheet tension is applied with increased wind pressure and the sheeting line is dropped down the luff (and clew board) to about 60% to 70% to free the leech in fresh winds. If you can adjust your rig tension it should be tightened in fresh airs to prevent forestay sag.

The spinnaker system should be set up with adjustable barber haulers, topping lift, kicker, brace and sheet. The adjustable barber haulers on the sheets should be used to ensure an accurate sheeting angle as the brace is altered fore and aft. The aim is to keep the sheeting line at approximately half the spinnaker clew angle. That is, when the brace is eased forward the barber hauler should be eased and visa-versa.

In light to moderate airs try easing the spinnaker halyard out 10" from the mast and half lower the jib to ensure the spinnaker sets in a clear air flow away from the rig. I suggest that for easy sail storage that you role the jib inside the mainsail with the battens untied but still in their pockets. This will help keep your sails in top racing condition.

I hope this tuning sheet helps you go faster, and if I can assist you any further please phone me at the loft.


Alastair Russell25-Nov-2005    Edit    Delete 

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