RL24, RL28, and RL34 Trailable Yachts
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Rudder is next
With the cockpit behind me its time to sort out the rudder, I have a nice meranti hardwood and epoxy/glass dagger but no stock to hold it in...Does any one have a plan or sketch of a simple steel or alum set-up...are there many advantages in extending the upper bracket out to get a vertical swivel on the stock? I reckon its got to have a "not captive" lower section to allow for the odd prang....I'm currently using the original cast gadget but its not great as you cant nudge the stern into the beach with out removing the rudder and haul up and down mechanisms are fiddlely..
Wayne Hill21-May-2001    Edit    Delete 
I have a rather long blade - and a tall rudder on my RL24. It slides vertically and I have a number of pin settings from Big Blow to shallow motoring. I generally sail with it half down. Initially I was concerned about it running aground first but in nine years it has not been a problem. It has an alloy frame. One unforseen advantage is it makes a firm hand grip when having that wee hour slash off the aft end (at anchor). Geoff Mc
Geoff McNamara24-May-2001    Edit    Delete 
G'day Geoff and Ian, thanks for the advice, dont suppose either of you could email a photo that features your rudder set up...I understand about the rake of the transom Ian but do you mean the rudder blade - leading edge caught at high speed due to altered planes/ angles or that the bracket its self dropped into the waterline and caught? I'm thinking of 20-25mm gal tube twin rectangles prototype at this stage... thanks Wayne
Wayne Hill30-May-2001    Edit    Delete 
Regarging the upper bracket, it is essential to move it out so that the pivot is vertical. Ours sloped back to match the transom . When the boat heels to 15 degreesit wouldnt grip the water. Moving the top bracket out made more difference in heavy weather than any other change we ever made to the boat.
Phil Moffatt25-May-2001    Edit    Delete 

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